Entrance to Success
March 15, 2012 by admin · Leave a Comment
You’ve heard about the importance of making a good first impression when meeting people for the first time. The same is true for the front entrance to an apartment or condo. Simple upgrades and plantings can make the entrance spell out “welcome home” to buyers and renters.
Studies show that viewing decisions happen in 60 seconds based on curb appeal. Curb appeal draws renters and buyers to your building and separates you from your competition.
Capturing a homebuyer’s or renter’s attention is a fast-moving game. It’s a fact that properties become less saleable and rentable as time goes by.
Whether you have a new project or an existing property with landscape elements in place, this blog can provide tips on how to maximize the value.
Landscaping, lawns, container pots and flowers create can increase your property’s value by up to 15%. Bottom line: exteriors count.
If you study the methods used by luxury hotels, resorts and residents, each area is “staged” for maximum effect: signage near gates and streets; parking areas; driveways; steps or paths leading to the entrance, and the entrance area itself.
So how do you achieve the same effect?
How to get started
Start by taking inventory. Whether your property is a new project or a resale, look at it objectively from the eyes of a first-time visitor looking to rent or by.
- Look at the drive-by view. Is it neat and tidy? Healthy? Trendy? Do the colours create a drab effect or add appeal?
- Check out what drivers see when they pull up and park. Parking areas can be a bleak stretch of asphalt with eye sores. But you can soften hard edges and block out neighbouring properties by planting ornamental grasses, hedges, and trees.
- Look at the pedestrian view walking up to the entrance. Analyze entrance paths and steps. Are there eye-sores? Is your landscaping thriving or wilting?
- Finally, consider the area immediately outside entrance doors.
Make a list of the problem areas you find. Tackle clean up and repair chores first, then put some time into projects that make the grounds more attractive.
- Remove fallen leaves, debris, and weeds.
- Dead-head, trim and prune bushes, shrubs.
- Get garden beds in shape by pulling weeds and adding mulch and fertilizers.
Book Ahead
Book ahead for Bur-Han’s commercial grounds maintenance services which covers your lawns, trees, shrubs and hedges. Tackle lawn issues by scheduling core aeration, moss control, and fertilization before the busy months: March and April.
Early spring is the time of year when existing landscaping elements can bear the signs of winter wear. Soils become hard-packed, shrubs and plants appear brown, withered, yellowed or unsightly. Lawns become mossy, thatch, pecked and uneven. Weeds grow between concrete and bricks.
Add Value with Enhancements
Any entranceway can benefit from extra attention:
- Grow vertical for impact. Tall topiaries, ornamental grasses and shade-loving plants provide eye candy that is low maintenance. Plant evergreen shrubs and hedges to add height and texture to the yard.
- Go coastal. Simply by adding ornamental grasses and pebbles, you can create a beach vibe.
- Go big and bold. When it comes to containers to dress up porches or entryways, the bigger the better.
- Light up. Solar lights are ideal for up to 5 hours of glow during the evening.
- Go native. Choose plants and flowers that are native to your region. Native species are more likely to survive and typically require less maintenance.
- Add splashes of colour. You can start in February with early bulbs and pussy willows, followed by tulips and other spring flowers come March. In the spring and summer, hang flowering baskets along perimeters. Add a new planting bed to frame your property rather than obscure it. Plant climbing vines that flower in spring and summer.
Use color to set the mood. Yellow has a strong impact to buyers. Black and lime are the “in” colours of 2012. Whatever colour you choose, you can dispel the gloom of bleak rainy and grey periods and create reminders of sunny days ahead.]
Quality entrance landscaping is an investment but it can significantly improve your property’s appearance by adding warmth, curb appeal and personality.
Harvesting Rainwater
March 12, 2012 by admin · Leave a Comment
Fifty years ago, most homes in Canada and the United States had rain barrels and cisterns. But as sprinkling systems became cheaper, home owners replaced rain water with municipal drinking water. These days, rain barrels are experiencing a renaissance thanks to the help of municipal rebate programs and subsidies.
How do you take advantage of free water falling from the sky? Collecting rainwater can start with the simple step of placing a rain barrel at the downspout of your eves trough. The rain barrel has a tap where you can place a bucket or watering can.
Rain barrels come in a range of colours, shapes, sizes and finishes. Most include an opening to collect water from a downspout, a lid, and a hose bibb or spigot.
For centuries, rainwater collected from roofs or gutters has been used throughout the world. In Asia, rainwater collection dates back almost 2000 years in Thailand. In the Roman empire, the world’s largest rainwater tank was built between 527 and 565 AD in Turkey.
Currently, more and more municipalities are encouraging residents to use rain barrels. In Ottawa, rain barrel rebates were provided to more than 10,000 residents last year. Rainwater harvesting has also become an integral part of designing buildings—like the Richmond Olympic Oval—that meet LEED and other green building certification requirements.
City of Vancouver residents can purchase a subsidized recycled plastic rain barrel for $75. This can hold up to 341 litres of water; it’s a half-cylinder design that can be placed against a wall. Features include two faucets, an overflow pipe, and a screen to filter debris. There is also a shorter rain barrel for small outdoor spaces available at $50 plus tax. This rain barrel can hold up to 170 litres. To take a look at a rain barrel, you can visit the City of Vancouver’s demonstration garden at 2150 Maple Street.
Do-it-yourselfers can build their own barrels or customize a large garbage can or plastic drum. Before you buy or build, here are some tips:
- Avoid clear containers to prevent algae growth.
- To prevent contamination, make sure to have a cover lid and a screen to catch debris.
- Cover the top and all other openings to keep your barrel free of mosquitoes.
There are a range of more complex systems that use cisterns that feed water back into your home.
Another way to divert water from roofing gutters is to create depressions to catch runoff so it can seep into the ground and feed nearby plants in a rain garden. To keep water from seeping into your foundation, dig out a channel into your garden or develop a river-like trench.
Whatever method you use, rainwater harvested from your gutter can go a long way toward providing the water for your lawn or vegetable garden over the summer months.
Defending Your Turf: Preventing Pecked-Up Lawns
March 5, 2012 by admin · Leave a Comment
It’s the time of year when lawns become ravaged by invaders lured by chafer beetle infestation. From February through March, it’s not uncommon to see birds, skunks and raccoons tearing up your lawn by day and night.
What to do to protect your turf? Read this article for tips. There is no single “magic bullet” that will solve rodents and birds from attacking your lawn but a wide variety of options available.
Tips and Techniques:
- Fence off. Install a tall fence 8 feet or higher, buried 2 to 3” below ground. Consider electric fences if legal in your municipality In farming areas, electric nets are also popular.
- Place bleach or ammonia stations around your yard. To do this, take a shallow dish or bowl, place a rag in it and pour the solution over the rag until completely saturated. Place enough in the dish so the rag will continue to wick it up throughout the night. Avoid lawn areas, as the ammonia will burn the lawn.
- Purchase wind chimes and movable objects including streamers and wind socks. the wind picks up, these items create noise, which will scare the crows away from the garden. Kitchen pots on sticks can also create motion.
- Apply a lawn net or mesh. You will have plenty of airflow and sunlight and be able to water when you need to. However, crows and other harmful creatures cannot get through.
- Lay on wire mesh. If you are experiencing problems with four-legged predators, wire will prevent them from penetrating these spots.
- Invest in motion sensitive lights or motion sensitive water sprinklers found at most major hardware stores. These will deter two-legged and four-legged predators with a startling burst of water and noise. Some motion-sensitive solutions can be linked across a large area, and can operate on a single nine-volt battery for up to six months.
- There is a spectrum of wire grade to choose from depending on what type of animal or bird you want to protect against.
- Organic pesticides. Although this is not always the best choice, when all else fails, there are some organic pesticides available which can be applied to lawns. However, be sure to follow the instructions carefully to ensure the overall safety of the birds.
- Lime. Sprinkling the garden or lawn areas with small amounts of lime will sometimes help to keep invading birds from visiting these areas.
- Ultrasonic animal repellant are silent and can be used to protect your yard from pets as well as predators.
- Adopt a guarding dog. Breed is important when it comes to protecting your property.
- Make your own animal repellent spray using water plus cayenne pepper, chili pepper or other type of hot pepper sauce you can buy from a grocery store. Recipes abound on the internet. In most cases, all the ingredients are cheap and the recipes easy. But this solution requires vigilance. Rainfall requires reapplication.
Lawn Care: Myths, Mishaps and Mistakes to Avoid
March 1, 2012 by admin · Leave a Comment
One of the most common myths about mowing is to wait until late (spring, that is). In actual fact, lawn management in the Lower Mainland is all about early care.
The rule of thumb is to check your grass height. If it’s over 4.5 inches, plan to start mowing once the ground is frost-free and dry. Depending on the amount of rainfall and overnight temperatures, you can start as early as February to give your grass a quick once-over trim.
In the Lower Mainland, lawn care tips and solutions are well-documented. Apart from the Bur-Han blog, home owners can check municipality web sites for lawn care and mowing guidelines. For example, West Vancouver posts a lawn care calendar with a month-by-month breakdown of tasks.
If the ground is too wet, get your lawn mower in shape while you wait for a dry spell. Sharpen dull blades; mowing with dull blades results in a multitude of problems: torn blades, discolouration, and vulnerability to infestation, weeds and turf diseases. Clear out any build-up of grass clippings and debris. For electric mowers, remove the housing and check the air vent slots. You want to prevent your mower’s motor from overheating and burning out. Consider getting your lawn mower serviced to replace worn parts such as carbon blocks.
Another myth is that leaving grass clippings causes thatch. Thatch is a problem resulting from compacted, cool and wet soil, not clippings. Thatch is a combination of dead plant stems and roots that accumulate at soil level in your grass. To tell if your lawn needs dethatching, cut out a small section of the turf that includes the soil beneath it. If the dead grass layer is more than a half-inch thick, it’s time to dethatch. You can do it yourself with a power rake. Leaving the clippings (a practice known as grass cycling) provides a natural source of nutrition: phosphorus. Grass cycling can reduce the need for fertilizer by up to 30%.
A third myth is that professional lawn and grass services can be turned into DIY projects such as spiking your lawn. Wearing spike-heeled shoes on lawns that are compacted or thatched pokes holes but does not remove thatch or plugs. Core aeration not only punches holes but lifts out plugs.
When it comes to mowing mistakes, one of the most prevalent problems is a combination of scalping and overwatering. By cutting too low (called scalping), brown patches can result when blades are removed. This can lead home owners to applying too much water or using a chemical treatment.
To avoid mowing mishaps and mistakes, follow five tips:
- Clear away debris, pine cones, twigs and any debris blown into your yard by winter storms.
- Mow high and mow sharp. Mowing too deeply weakens grass and encourages weed growth.
- Never remove more than a third of the grass blade. You want to allow your grass root system to develop. Smaller roots leave your grass vulnerable to invasive weeds. This is the time of year when everything starts to bloom: moss, weeds as well as healthy turf.
- Vary your mowing pattern. This helps compacted soul, and reduces wheel rutting.
- Check the condition of your grass and the underlying soil for moss, thatch and pests.
In early spring, Vancouverites can face the problem of a pecked-over yard. This is the time when the grubs are fully grown, and hungry crows, skunks and raccoons will start to feast. By mowing your lawn, you can spot this problem early before it requires retreating the entire surface. Two approaches to prevent pecked lawns resulting from beetle infestation include covering lawns with mesh, and installing motion-sensor sprinkler systems to deter creatures from digging up your turf. For more information, contact Bur-Han.
Ready, Set, Plant
February 27, 2012 by admin · Leave a Comment
There’s an old saying among gardeners: “As long as you can get your shovel in the ground, you can plant your bulbs.”
It’s only February but nursery-grown crocus, daffodils, hyacinths and tulips seem to be everywhere. Potting soil and pockets are lining the shelves of grocery stores and garden suppliers alike.
If you haven’t planted bulbs last fall and are hoping to add touches of spring to your garden, here are suggested guidelines to help you get started.
Before You Plant
Before you purchase, choose bulb plants that are in the bud stage but not yet blooming.
As soon as you bring potted plants home, water the pots well and then store them in a cool dry area such as a basement.
If you transplant to larger containers, make sure the bulbs are not right up against the sides of the pot, where they could freeze. There should be plenty of soil between the pot sides and the bulbs for insulation.
As long as the temperature is above freezing, they can stay in a cold but protected area to get used to colder temperatures before you plant them outside.
As soon as you see new growth, you can add a high-nitrogen fertilizer. Make sure you water before and after.
How soon can you start planting? Once soil is frost-free (check for ice crystals). Worried about future freezing cold snaps? Plant a large movable container to brighten your front door, deck or porch.
Getting Creative with Containers
From toys to tubs, bread baskets to bicycle baskets, don’t be afraid to get creative with containers. Flea markets are hunting grounds for unusual containers such as the following: old leather boots, pet baskets, antique watering cans, wheelbarrows and tin breadbaskets.
Planning garden plantings
Plan to plant low-growers like the crocus, primroses and pansies along edges.
Place taller blooms such as tulips and jonquils further back in a flower bed or garden location.
Plant in thick clumps or drifts rather than placing in straight rows or in isolation.
Daffodils don’t a lot of shade. They also prefer soil that isn’t water-logged.
If your property has deciduous trees, plant around the base.
Sun-facing rockeries are an ideal location for crocus, tulips and daffodils.
Planting Tips
Prep your soil. Take a rake to your flower beds. This breaks up the top layer of soil and lets you check the soil condition, for example, whether it’s too compact. If so, add vermiculite or peat moss.
Enrich your soil with compost mixes. Peat-enriched soil with a compost mixture keeps the English primrose healthy and vibrant.
add mulch to help insulate the bulbs and retain moisture.
Plant as deeply as possible. Even if the soil seems frosty, your plants are better in the ground than in your basement or garage because they start to root.
It’s Lime Time | Lime Aid for Acid Lawns
February 23, 2012 by admin · Leave a Comment
Have you ever wondered why some lawns look more lush and healthy than others? One important factor lies below the surface of grass: your soil.
Your soil’s pH level, which indicates the level of soil’s acidity or alkalinity, can directly influence the quality of your lawn regardless of what type of seed, fertilizer or treatment you apply.
When Lime is the Solution
When your soil’s pH is below 7.0, the soil is said to be acidic. One cause is the leaching of base nutrients such as calcium, magnesium, and potassium from the soil due to heavy rainfall or heavy irrigation. Acidic water also can be a main contributor. The good news for acidic soil is that adding lime to your lawn can repair the damage of time and depleted nutrients.
Whether you need to lime your lawn
One test can determine whether your lawn is too acidic and how much lime to apply. Do-it-yourselfers can buy a soil test kit or pH probe at your local garden center. Most soil test reports will indicate the lime requirement in pounds of pure calcium carbonate per acre, or per 1000 square feet.
When to lime your lawn
If you’re starting a new lawn, make sure to test your soil and add lime before you plant. For existing turf, spring is one of the best times to apply lime.
What exactly is lime made of and how does it work?
Lime is completely natural: made out of crushed limestone or crushed eggshells. It gives nutrients to plants and keeps a balance of other nutrients such as copper, zinc and phosphorous. It can create more porous soil which traps moisture and means less watering is needed.
It takes time for lime to work its way through your soil: up to two years to move two inches.
There are a wide variety of lime products on the market. Not all work the same way. Some have less of an environmental footprint to others depending on the amount of energy required to mine and manufacture.
Know your lime
- Eggshell lime is made from crushed eggshells. It contains five nutrients for your lawn including calcium, potash, nitrogen, and phosphorus. One benefit is that it releases calcium quickly into soils because it’s more quickly broken down by micro-organisms.
- Calcitic lime (also called aglime) is mined from natural, limestone bedrock deposits. The process is energy-intensive, and involves drilling, blastic, and crushing. This type of lime not only neutralizes soil acidity but also supplies calcium.
- Dolomitic lime is mined similar to aglime. It supplies both calcium and magnesium for plant growth as well as neutralizing acidity.
- Burned lime (calcium oxide), also called quicklime or unslaked lime, is manufactured by roasting crushed lime in a furnace to drive off carbon dioxide. It has the highest neutralizing value. But it can be difficult to handle properly because it absorbs water very quickly. When it flakes, it decomposes slowly.
- Hydrated lime (calcium hydroxide), also called builder’s lime or slaked lime, is very caustic and not intendeded for existing turf or it will burn grass.
- Marl is mined from deposits below peat bogs. Often, it contains impurities and has a lower neutralizing value than other types of lime.
- Pelletized lime is finely-ground agricultural lime that comes in pellet form. During rain or irrigation, these pellets dissolve. Unlike regular liming materials, there is no dust problem associated with applying. For new lawns, apply pellets to the soil surface and water thoroughly before tilling.
Lime application tips
- Wait for a dry spell when the ground has thawed. If you lime the soil is too wet, it is difficult to obtain an even distribution.
- Level off your soil before applying. Lime needs to be spread evenly over the entire area because it does not move horizontally.
- Wear gloves if you are handling calcium carbonate (also called calcic lime).
- Use a spreader for better distribution.
- Cover off areas you don’t want lime to be spread before you start.
- Avoid tracking lime dust onto patios or into your house.
- Don’t overapply: before you spread more than 75 pounds per 1,000 square feet, check with the experts.
Regardless of what type of lime you apply, it can increase your yard’s plant growth and healthy green color.
Moss and Moss Management
February 20, 2012 by admin · Leave a Comment
Unless you are planning to create a moss carpet, moss control can be an ongoing problem for lawn owners in the Lower Mainland. Let’s face it: moss loves our wet west coast environment. Unlike grass, which favours a more alkaline soil, moss thrives on acidic soil.
Thanks to our heavy winter rainfall, it’s easy for the most nutrient-rich soil to turn acidic. What’s more, given the low level of sunlight and the high concentration of trees in the Lower Mainland, moss can aggressively grow and take over yards.
Identifying the culprit
Do you know if you have a moss problem in your yard? Recognition is the key.
Follow these steps to check for what you suspect is moss:
- Lift off a section of grass and check for roots. Lawn moss has no root system, so it lifts off easily.
- Look for seeds or seed pods. Lawn moss reproduces from spores or vegetative parts.
Once you’ve established that your lawn has moss, late winter or early spring is the best time to address it.
Moss control solutions for the Vancouver yard require more than most off-the-shelf lime control products can deliver. The simple reason is that they aren’t designed for this climate, and can’t penetrate water-logged grass especially compacted over the winter.
Although we can’t turn on sun and heat, we can change the soil conditions by aeration and lime application.
All about Aeration
Aeration is the process of removing tiny cores from the soil with a specialized tool. This lets moisture and nutrients to move more freely through the topsoil which is important for grass growth and health.
Lime Time
Lime application raises the soil pH and improves the availability of nutrients and calcium that helps lawns grow better. The higher quality of lime, the better. As a start, you can check the pH level to find out if your soil has a high acidity level. There are pH testing kits available at garden centres. The amount of lime to apply can depend on several factors. It’s important to consult lawn care specialists to ensure that the best lime levels are applied.
Iron Sulphate Solution
At Bur-Han, we also use an Iron sulphate solution to eliminate moss as a key step in getting the moss problem under control.
Moss Management
Managing moss is not a two-step process. Establishing and maintaining a moss-free lawn needs a multi-step approach. Moss spreads by spores, so it needs to be eradicated everywhere it grows including trees and plants.
After moss is removed, you still need to take steps for healthy grass to grow, such as adding a layer of top soil and seed to your lawn in early spring especially where there are bare patches. Finally, you need to fertilize in the spring to help turf grow.
Aeration at a Glance
February 16, 2012 by admin · Leave a Comment
What is aeration and why consider it?
Although the term sounds exotic and complex, aeration is like a spa treatment for your lawn. It does the equivalent of opening up skin pores and removing what’s plugging them up.
Two of the most common lawn care problems in the Lower Mainland are compaction and thatch.
Over time, a healthy lawn can become hard-packed when it’s trampled over or used for sports. This is called compaction. A boggy lawn that pools water is one sign of it.
Thatch build-up is another way that a healthy lawn can deteriorate. Thatch is a thick layer of stem, debris, clippings and root that is directly below the grass blade.
Why aerate?
Left untreated, a lawn that is compacted or has a thatch problem doesn’t get the air, water and nutrient at the root level. And it becomes vulnerable to weed, insect and disease.
What is core aeration and how does it work?
It’s a machine process that uses no chemicals.
Core aeration removes small clumps of soil, which are then deposited on the surface (they’ll work their way into the grass within a month). This breaks up the compaction, leaving small openings for water and air to penetrate to the root zone.
When is the best time to aerate?
There are two times of year to consider aeration: spring and fall. In spring, the best time to start aeration is before your grass enters its major growth spurt. An aeration window could range from February to June.
The rule of thumb is to aerate when the soil is not water-logged and after you’ve mowed it a few times.
What equipment is involved?
Core aeration machines that look like snow blowers remove the hard-packed soil and thatch. They don’t just push holes into your grass like the foot-powered manual aerators.
What are my options?
You can rent aeration equipment at a tool supply or garden supply store. But this 350-pound piece of equipment it won’t fit into a standard trunk. You’ll need a mini van or truck as well as help hauling it.
What should I do before I call for an aeration service?
Before you aerate:
- Check for yourself: long roots are one indicator of health. If you dig up 15 centimeters of grass and find short roots (less then 5 cm), your turf may need to be unclogged.
- Mark the location of anything that’s under your lawn: sprinkler heads, cables, utility lines.
- Water your lawn if it isn’t raining. Two days of watering are ideal.
If you are aerating yourself:
- Push the machine lengthwise, and then widthwise.
- Apply a top dressing of compost or store-bought manure: rake at least 5 millimeters to fill in the holes.
After you aerate:
- Consider applying seed, lime or fertilizer. This is the best time to help soil and grass. Freshly-aerated lawns are ideal for new seed.
At Bur-Han, we can take care of the entire process for you.
Interested in booking an aeration service or learning more? Give Bur-Han a call.
Vancouver Snow, Snow Shovels and your Garden 4 Tips
November 4, 2011 by admin · Leave a Comment
Now is the time to be buying your snow shovel, if you don’t have one. Vancouver has unpredictable snow patterns and as a result most retailers do not stock a large number of shovels. There are two basic kinds of shovels one that is actually for shoveling and one that is for pushing. Home Depot and Rona will have both shovels and they will cost around 20 dollars, they will be made of plastic and will last a few seasons. If you want to buy a once a lifetime shovel buy an aluminum push or snow shovel, they are some times sold in the larger stores but are most often sold at stores that landscapers frequent. They will cost $50 to $60. You will have to make the choice on the value that a more expensive shovel will make to you and for most homeowners it is not the investment they where thinking of. Having both shovels is a benefit, the pusher shovel is great for small snow falls one to two inches high or dry snow, not something we usually get. If you are going to have move large amounts of snow the shovel design is more useful. Something new to stores is a sleigh style shovel; this is a new shovel that is easier on your back. If you are a homeowner that does not have anyone to help you and you hate heavy lifting this could be your snow shovel. The design is a bit like a pusher and shovel mixed except that you can slide over the snow once you have pushed some onto the blade, a lot easier in all conditions. So now you want to use your shovel and you are thinking about getting out there and getting it done, well here are 4 tips that will make your work go better and help your garden in the spring.
1) Listen to the weather forecast and plan where you are going to leave your snow pile. Even though our weather is mild a snow pile can last along time. Many people will clear a driveway side to side rather than length wise.
2) Avoid placing your pile on the grass, if you can avoid it. While a lawn can survive snow, salt and debris in the snow can damage your lawn. Snow piles also tend to be more compact than a regular snow fall and the result can be lawn damage.
3) When choosing an ice melter we recommend ones that are lawn safe. Salt is good at melting the snow but can cause soil to become infertile so if you have a pathway by a garden or lawn, choose wisely.
4) Snow build up on trees should especially hedges should be removed to prevent damage. It is recommended to sweep the snow off rather than shaking. Shaking trees can result in breakage and damage.
Mulching leafs in Vancouver your 4 options
October 31, 2011 by admin · Leave a Comment
Leafs are changing colour and starting to fall in Vancouver. The colours are beautiful and there are a couple of things to look at while you enjoy this fall season. Many people will choose perennial plants over annuals in their gardens because of some of the labor savings. Trees and shrubs at this time of year that are sheading their leafs are starting to change colour and it is a great time to get out and walk your neighborhood or a neighborhood you like and start picking colours and plants from the varieties that you area seeing. Take pictures of the shrubs and plants and bring them to your local garden centre, there they will be able to tell you what varieties you have seen and make the appropriate suggestions. Building year round colour through the choice of trees and shrubs is a great way to add some brightness into a grey day.
When it comes to the leafs that are dropping from the trees in your garden you have 3 choices of what to do with them.
1) Collect the leafs and remove them entirely from your yard
This is the long-standing practice of most homeowners and is usually the practice in urban environments. This may also be the case even if you will mulch some of the leafs if you have an extremely large tree or trees in your yard and mulch will produce more product than you need.
2) Collect the mulched leafs and compost them
When composting leafs you want to make sure that the leafs will actually compost. Composting leafs takes along time as a result of their low nitrogen content. Leafs are what is termed as the “browns” in composting. It is best to use your mower to collect the leafs as this will shred the leafs and will save space and decrease the composting time. When composting the leafs you will need to add “greens” which are the nitrogen rich components of compost. The greens can be grass clipping, plant clippings, coffee grounds or other nitrogen sources that are allowed in a composter. You can also get compost starter at nursery’s and hardware stores. If you are using natural greens, soil or composted soil you will want to produce layers of browns and greens. Place a layer of mulched leafs down somewhere between 4 to 6 inches deep and then cover them with a layer of dirt, composted soil or plant trimmings about 1 to 2 inches deep and then repeating the process over and over. Follow the instructions for commercially purchased compost starter. When you are finished your layering you will need to keep your pile moist and turned every three to four weeks.
3) Mulch the leafs in place on your lawn
You can mulch the leafs in place on your lawn but there are some precautions with doing this. The biggest concern is that mulch can in no way cover or smother the grass. You should be starting to mulch when the leafs are less than one inch thick on the lawn you will have to go over the lawn 2 or three times to reduce the leafs to a fine enough consistency that they can be of a benefit and not a detriment. The advantages to mulching in place can be timesaving’s and nutrients for your lawn.
4) Collect the mulched leafs from your lawn and spread them in your garden.
A final option for your leafs is to mulch them with your lawn mower and collect them in the grass bag to be spread in your garden. Spread them in your garden being careful not to cover the crowns of perennial plants or laying the mulch up against the bases of trees and shrubs. This will add nutrients to your garden and provide a protective layer for roots. It is important that you apply a slow release fertilizer to your garden in the spring to help boost the nitrogen content of the soil which maybe lower as a result of the composting leafs.
